Podolia is a piece of history — and quite a large piece of Ukraine.
This region is primarily associated with the Southern Bug River and several other tributaries of the Dniester. It stretches from Khmelnytskyi, through Vinnytsia, all the way to Kamianets-Podilskyi and Mohyliv, even cutting into Moldova. Historically, it was ruled by Ruthenians, Lithuanians, Poles, Turks, and sadly, the Russians — and today, it is an important part of Ukraine’s western heartland.
Everyone at school heard something about the Bar Confederation. That the nobility gathered in Bar, where they forged an alliance against the Moscow state (for me back then and still now — just against the katsaps). And if you paid attention while reading Sienkiewicz’s Trilogy, you might remember that it was in Bar where Zagłoba hid Helena from the Cossacks. So driving to Bar, you truly feel history — both the heavy textbook kind and the kind from the canon of Polish literature.
Where did this little town and its beautiful name come from?
King Sigismund the Old married not just anyone, but the Italian princess Bona Sforza. And of course, it wouldn’t be fitting not to give his wife a gift — so he granted her the town of Rów and its surrounding villages. Since Bona came from Bari, she decided that Bar was a more suitable name for the town. And not wanting to live in a shack, she and her royal husband built a beautiful castle here — a proper fortress. For many years, it was a stronghold of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth’s defensive system… until 1768, when it was completely destroyed by — who else? The katsaps.
So what can you find there today?
A beautiful park, bordered by the Rów river, now stands where the ruined castle once was. Apart from an Orthodox church, there’s also a Roman Catholic Polish church. You can sip something tasty at one of the charming cafés or enjoy an excellent meal at the Gurman restaurant on the town’s outskirts. You’ll also find traces of our shared history — like the little old cemetery, just behind Gurman, aptly named.
Is it worth a visit?
If you’re looking to run around a giant castle and take hundreds of selfies, head to Malbork. But in Bar, you can feel history — truly.
And what about Zhmerynka?
Let’s start with the name. Legend has it that in the late 16th or early 17th century, there were two unnamed villages here — one inhabited by Poles, the other by Ukrainians. There were constant clashes and fights between them, until one day a great and bloody battle took place. Its consequences were tragic — but also cleansing. After the fight, both sides realized that violence led nowhere. They reconciled and shook hands. They formed one united village, which eventually grew into a town. And the name?
Zhmerynka — zhme–rynka, from Old Polish and Old Ukrainian — to offer a hand.
This city is a living symbol of reconciliation, empathy, and the understanding of how much can be achieved through cooperation — and how destructive conflict can be.
If you dig a little into more recent history, Zhmerynka is the birthplace of Jan Brzechwa, honored here with two plaques.
And what can you do here today?
You can buy phenomenal fresh rolls from elderly ladies selling them at the train station, drink insanely good coffee in a cozy spot with the best vibe on Earth, or eat borscht and dumplings in… I don’t even know how to describe it. A little shop where some Nadiia sells sweet buns and candy bars, while her not-so-young friend Luda hand-rolls potato dumplings in the back.
Also worth noting — Zhmerynka is like Koluszki for Ukraine. A huge railway hub that’s vital to the country’s infrastructure.